Coastal Engineering

AY2020/2021 Semester 1

Wind-generated waves: wind wave generation, statistics and forecasting. Mechanics of wave motion: linear wave theory, wave kinematics, pressure, energy and power, wave group celerity, shoaling, refraction, diffraction and reflection of waves, wave breaking and runups. Coastal wave level fluctuations: tides, seiches, surges, wind setup and basin oscillations. Coastal zone processes: beach profiles, longshore transport and sediment budget. Coastal structures: fluid loading, breakwater design.